DIY hardware cases

[deseipel]

My other GC was the impetus for this thread: anyone ever put together a hardware case like this?






source: http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/show ... hp?t=65957

[YamahaPlayer]

Yes and No. Seem plenty of home made ones, from RubberMade tubs with casters to projects like that fellows. There's a reason he won't disclose the price as well. Not to mention the tools you'd need to cut aluminum cornering like that.

If you are looking for an ATA level flight case, you are best off just purchasing one. In the end, IMO, it's well worth the money to buy a quality product, that comes with a real warranty (including possible damages to interior items).

If you think of paying yourself $10/hour, after even 10 hours that's $100, not including the cost of materials, which would be substantial to make a case like that using quality products. I can tell you right now, just the corner brackets, latches and casters cost more then $50 on that case pictured. Plenty of hardware stores online to check the prices.

If you're not flying gear, then you can purchase road cases reasonably. Not to mention the used market on them.

[Mark P]

I have a couple of kits with different acts all flightcased like this, but I would never consider using one when I do my own cartage.

There's a bunch of reasons...

1. They are massively heavy.
2. They are bulky for putting in cars/vans.
3. They take up a lot of space even when empty.
4. They tend to be harder to store at venues when you've set up.
5. They scratch the inside of your car to all hell.

Do think twice if this is your only method of carting your gear...

MP

[patdrums]

I agree with Mark P's responses completely BUT......

If you have some solid, basic wood and metal working skills, you can make ATA cases fairly easily. I've made several over the years and I still use many of them. It all depends on if you are into fiddling with projects in your spare time. I really enjoy the satisfaction of making something myself rather than buying it but if you're starting from scratch and don't have the necessary tools already, you'll end up spending more on tooling up than you will on just buying it from an established manufacturer.

Parts costs are about 50% of what a manufactured case will cost. If you aren't worried about the cost of your time, the cost of specialized tools, and the fact that it will take alot longer than you estimate (especially if you've never done it before) then I say go for it. The best place I've found to buy parts is penn-elcom.com. They make all the parts that most manufacturers use and you can buy direct from them. You'll need plywood, ABS plastic sheeting, contact cement and rollers, several feet of extrusions (the metal edges and lid channels), casters, corner braces, corners, foam, carpet, latches, hinges and more rivets than you would ever think necessary!

A few tools that will make it MUCH easier are a good table saw (for cutting the wood squarely), a metal cutting miter saw (for cutting precise angles on all the metal extrusions) and an air-powered rivet gun and air compressor. Trust me. My first case was riveted with a hand held pop riveter. After putting in a couple hundred rivets by hand, I could barely hold a coffee cup! Aside from these, you'll need a good set of basic shop tools like a drill, jigsaw, straightedge, carpet knife and socket set.

You can choose the thickness of plywood you like and buy the extrusions and channels to fit whatever you decide. If you're just going to be using the case on local gigs and humping it yourself, go with 1/4" plywood. It's thin, MUCH lighter and will do the job fine. If you're ever planning on using them in a real road-gig situation and throwing them in a truck or having union hands load/unload 1/4" won't do. Again, trust me on this. A forklift driven by a hungover stagehand will go thru it like a hot knife thru butter. You have to use at LEAST 5/8" Baltic Birch which makes for a HEAVY case that you don't want to have to hump into your van on local gigs. Fill it full of cymbal stands and it'll weigh enough to break your toe if it ever rolls over it! I have several big, heavy, professional ATA cases for my road kit and I don't ever touch them other than to open the lids. Crew and stagehands do all the work and the cases stay in the truck year-round. For in-town work where I have to do my own cartage, I've found the ABS type cases like SKB, Enduro, Protechtor etc. are MUCH lighter and work fine.

If you decide to jump in and do it, take sometime and inspect how manufactured cases are designed and built. Plan yours accordingly. Measure carefully and don't make them too big to fit thru the thinnest door or in a bus bay if you ever plan on using them on a road gig. And be EXTREMELY careful and conscious of your hands around any cutting tools. You need them to play the drums you're making cases for! If you don't have any experience with large power tools, I'd recommend taking the safe route and just buying them. Let someone else risk losing a finger! It's not worth hurting yourself just to save a few bucks. Really. If you aren't HYPER careful, you can get hurt really badly.

Building and designing them yourself is fun and very gratifying but you need to be sure to honestly assess your abilities and needs before you dive in.


Pat

[deseipel]

Pat - thank you for shedding light on the overlooked nuances of DIY. There's a certain amount of pride that is felt by me when I build or create something from nothing. There's too many people that will never experience this. It's nice to hear your perspective.

Although it'd be cool to build one of these, I have no practical purpose to do so. I have a newer case bag, and although it's super heavy as it is, it sounds like there's no practical way to make lugging it to gigs any easier. Unless someone builds carbon fiber cymbal stands.

[YamahaPlayer]

Well said Pat, there's a pride in making things, but often projects are much larger and longer then people initially estimate. I still love making stuff, more drums though, mostly snare drums.

I have a newer case bag, and although it's super heavy as it is, it sounds like there's no practical way to make lugging it to gigs any easier. Unless someone builds carbon fiber cymbal stands.

They do. A couple companies make carbon composite weave racks, hardware, drums, etc. The cost however far exceeds the loss of weight.


On the flip side - check out Yamaha HipGig kits, or other similar products. Perfect for those smaller gigs where you just don't need lots of drums, limited space and want to enjoy being able to set up faster then the guitarist.

You could also really 'design' a small kit like that, if you are creative about things, it can become very efficient.

[Rhythmatist]

All my SKB and other hard cases are now in the rafters of my garage. As I get older and I'm now carrying all of my own gear in a van I've gone on the cheap. For hardware I either use long sports duffels purchased at Target for under $30 (for lighter stands) or military duffels from the local Army/Navy store for around $60 (these are super strong, better than the stuff "designed" for carrying drum hardware). I roll everything up in towels I got from the local dollar store to keep stands from rubbing together during transport. My stuff looks brand new.

[Matus]

Silly pro tip for too much weight: split the load into two separate smaller bags/cases. I used to do that when I was gigging around with a small Rythm Traveller kit and could make my way to any gig by taking a regular cab.
I also did that when I was using Mapex 900 stands, which weigh like two Yamaha stands. I used to separate the lower sections of the stands and put them in their own bag with the little arms. The other parts went into their own bag and it was a hell easier to carry. Even carrying the whole weight was easier, as you could do it with both hands and lift with your legs, thus avoiding back damage.
As for flight cases, I wouldn't use that unless you're doing some intensive, heavy duty touring with truck loads and that stuff. The size and weight are just too much, I'd rather go for a cheaper hard plastic case, like this:
http://www.thomann.de/gb/stagg_stc48hw_ ... e_case.htm
Which is what I'm using at the moment for extensive touring where I'm not loading/setting up.

[Rhythmatist]

Silly pro tip for too much weight: split the load into two separate smaller bags/cases.

Exactly what I began doing a couple years ago. As one gets older it just makes a world of sense.

I also carry two of those rolling tool boxes. One is a Black and Decker that I carry the stuff I would use for every kit and configuration...snare stand, throne, pedals. The other, a Stanley, holds all of my mics and cables (and serves as a table for my Mackie mixer). They cost less than $40 each, are sturdy as hell and fit great side by side in the back of my Town and Country. Yeah, I look like I'm coming into the venue to repair the HVAC but who cares...they are quite functional and cost less than 1/3 of the price of something made specifically for drum hardware.

[mikebxb]

My kingdom for inflatable drums!

I made a slew of DIY cases not near the quality of what Pat described ..mostly 3/4" plywood, right angle braces, 3" casters & gloss black paint..two still exist & are bulletproof but HEAVY.
Then I had custom Calzone road cases made. very nice! expensive & still heavy.
now I use hard plastic (SKB) individual drum cases. I cut down both racks & each fit in their cases the 1 up 2 down rack fits in a small SKB hardware case . The "A" kit rack goes in a Humes & Berg 48" long hardware case
,..I keep another small SKB hardware case for main survivances as in pedals , hat, throne. stick bag for any gig..
Cymbals in SKB cymbal case

I carry two snares in a 14x12 SKB take one out & set the other to my left at gig for a "night stand"/drink holder / set list blah blah & i can get the other snare out if I blow a head..
Like Pat stated ...its pretty gratifying to make your own custom cases & feel you beat them at their own game but it also makes you appreciate light & ease..

Its a lotta plastic & more trips than I like to make but their light and moduler